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how to remove inner tie rod without tool

Written By Christman Fortits Wednesday, November 10, 2021 Add Comment Edit

w666 [OP] D. None of the above

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While trying to sort out my vibration problem, the tire guy told me I needed a lower ball joint, and both inner and outer tie rod ends. I jacked the car up at home and the wheel was so loose in any direction it felt like it was going to fall off! So I went for it...
I've got the JBJ off, and the OEM part from McGeorge Toyota will arrive any minute now. The outer tie rod end was no more trouble to remove that expected, but the inner refuses to come loose. Before I get more aggressive with it (I'm afraid I might bend the rack), I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar problem, and more importantly, a solution.

I expected to find a lock washer staked to the flats, but there is nothing there. Perhaps it's been changed once already? Perhaps it's secured by Loctite? Yeech!

My thanks in advance for your wisdom and advice!
N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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Are they right hand thread?? I replaced the whole rack, so did not have to deal with inners.
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

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Everything I've seen/read says it's left thread (lefty loosey). The outer ends should be left threaded on the passenger side, and right threaded on the driver side (I haven't removed that one yet, so I stick with "should be" until I do).
Geo4x4 New Member

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Check the threads on the new one to see if they are right or left hand thread. And btw left hand thread is lefty tighty righty loosey. Right hand thread is the normal style bolt that is righty tighty lefty loosey. Good luck!
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

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Found a FSM...
rock climber New Member

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Mine was normal threaded. What are you using to get it off? I used a massive pipe wrench, but O'Reilly's has a tool that fits over it and then multiple different clamps so you can use a socket.

bmf4069 and revtune like this.
revtune New Member

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^This!
Pipe wrench works very good on inner tie rods for removing and installing. When I changed the ones on my 06 they were super tight and they'd never been changed before.
Ludakrishna New Member

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Yeah, the stake washer is not installed. Whoever installed it last didn't do it right. With that said, I really didn't have much of a fight in replacing the inner tie rod.
https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/wrench/duralast-10in-locking-adjustable-wrench/565691_0_0

This product made changing the inner tie rods a breeze on a 17 year old truck from the rust belt. It fits the steering rack portion perfectly with its low profile jaw and I was able to break loose the inner tie rod using a pipe wrench while this held the steering rack in place. For pipe wrench, I went to harbor freight and got their largest one.

I rented the inner tie rod tool from advance auto and it would not fit over my truck's Inner Tie Rod.
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

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I'm using a big ass adjustable crescent wrench. The pipe wrench may be in my future. The truck is on jack stands so I can't really use a long pipe for added leverage. But now that I'm confident of the thread direction I can be a bit more aggressive. Ahh...if only this rain would stop!
Ludakrishna New Member

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Are you using two wrenches? One to hold the steering rack stationary and the other to loosen the Tie Rod? If not, you can really cause some damage to the steering rack. As I mentioned, I have a truck from the rust belt and the outer tie rod nut was welded on due to corrosion. I had to remove the inner tie rod and outer tie rod in one piece. It literally took me a few seconds to loosen the inner tie rod once I had both of my wrenches positioned correctly.
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

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No, not yet. I haven't really done much yet since it didn't twist off easily. Still gathering info, suggestions, and real life experience. Thanks for sharing yours! I see how two wrenches are called for in the service manual picture above, but the steering rack is polished smooth and has no flats for a second wrench. So I don't understand how to set the wrench on the rack. I'm very concerned about damaging the rack.
Edit:

Hmmm...looks like there might be some flats after all. I'll climb under there again (after the effin rain stops!) and check it out.

Last edited: Sep 10, 2020
Ludakrishna New Member

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Yep, that's the spot where the Duralast wrench went on perfectly. It's a very narrow area and can be easily missed.

w666 [OP] and N84434 like this.
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

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Bummer
There are no flats at all! In fact, it looks like the end has been ground to eliminate them? Maybe a refurbished unit? Or even a non-OEM replacement? SFP!

I'll run the rack in all the way to the other side, and see how much shaft still protrudes. Maybe I can get some sort of strap wrench on there.

Last edited: Sep 15, 2020
Sounds like a good plan. Then use a pipe wrench on the steering rack as close to the joint as you can. Pipe wrench teeth grab in one direction so make sure you have it orientated correctly. Then sand the teeth marks out.
w666 [OP] D. None of the above

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Solved! The problem was (as is so often the case when working on cars) I had too much money! I just needed to spend more!!
I purchased a Lisle 54500 Large Inner Tie Rod Tool ($60 at Rock Auto). The Tundra requires a 42mm claw. With the tool and my 1/2" breaker bar i was able to unloose it and spin it off. I expected that Loctite was involved, but instead I found this funky white stuff all over the threads, mostly on the passenger side.

Installation of the new ends was painless. There were no slots for the claw washer, so I used Loctite and 58 ft/lbs of torque.

Last edited: Sep 15, 2020
N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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Excellent! You earned a cold beer after that!
revtune New Member

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Glad you got it solved. Also, pretty sure the white stuff is/was some form of thread locker. That's probably why it was so tight.

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how to remove inner tie rod without tool

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