Introduction: Modern Round Cocktail table

I had a lot of assorted red oak scrap left from medieval projects and wanted to do something with it. I also wanted to learn any new skills soh I decided to arrive at my early discoid postpone. During this build I learned how to cut perfect circles, use a router right, and how to flatten a slab using handplanes. I count on that this could equal built all over the flow of a weekend for under a $100.

Step 1: Tools & Materials

Lumber

I used 12/4 S3S red oak scrap from several past projects. 12/4 operating theatre 3" is the thickness of the lumber in its rough state. S3S stands for surfaced 3 sides - that agency both faces will be flat and parallel with one edge that is unbowed line ripped.

Legs

16" Hairpin Legs

These legs are a buy for the cost. The only problem I found with them was that the paint could easily Be scratched. Although, if you're willing to spend a little extra you could go gravel a couplet pulverisation coated.

Stain & End up

Because I was using trash, each board was unlike in discolor. I tried to even it out past using a whitewash stain, Minwax Pickled Oak, and water based finish to fend off ambering. Overall IT came impossible pretty good but if I did this again I would use Rubio Monocoat because it's a far more durable fetch up, keeps the surface superficial and tactual sensation corresponding wood, and only takes same coat.

Threaded Inserts

Conscionable taxonomic group inserts from amazon.

Tools

  • Miter Saw
  • Board Power saw
  • Router with Flush Trim & 3/8" Roundover Bits
  • Plane
  • Drill
  • Drill Bits
  • Clamps
  • Motley Handplanes
  • Circuit Cutting Jig

Step 2: Lead Layout & Surfacing

Initial I set my boards out in the preference that looked best. And so I rough cut them over on the miter saw. Once they were in more manageable lengths I square up the boards negotiable power saw and thicknessed them on the planer.

Whole tone 3: Glue Leading

My timber was fairly crooked sol I decided to role dowels to supporte keep the table top flat during the glue up. I used a affordable dowel jig I found along Amazon for $15. To use information technology you just ready the depth of the drill bit, mark a line on your ii boards, and drill the hole. I drew a circle connected the table top and then I knew where to put dowels that way I wouldn't accidently make out into them while routing the rotary. After all the dowel holes were drilled I did a test glueup to check for any problems. Last I glued it all up; unfortunently I forgot to take pictures during this step.

Step 4: Flattening the Slab

This was my archetypical time flattening a slab and I had no approximation what I was doing. I secondhand a jointers plane to roughly flatten out it, and then a smoothing level to clean skyward the surface.

Exploitation the jointers plane, I planed in every direction, rotating every so often. When it was flat I then exploited the smooth plane to set about cleaning up the surface. It is very important that you woodworking plane with the grain to reduce tearout. I did not serve this at first and had a ton of tearout that became true more marked after stain was applied. Once I saw this I got my smoothing level back come out and planed information technology until it was clear of tearout.

My planing wasn't perfect so I cleaned up some defects with my belt and orbital sander.

Step 5: Cutting the Top Into a Circle

I made an additional instructable about the jig I used to geld my top.

Since this is a set back top I flipped IT terminated and found the center to attach the jig. Next I started routing while making careful to rotate clockwise to foreclose the snatch from catching. I found it cut better and faster on a slower speed. After I reached my maximum profundity I cut between the void with a gigue saw. This left a slight holdover that I could then square away with a rosiness trim bit.

Step 6: Roundover & Sanding

I filled any cracks with stainable wood filler and so added a 3/8" round over to the peak & bottom of the table top. After the woodwind instrument filler was dried I used my orbital sander and sanded it up to 220 grit.

Tread 7: Finish

This is where I ran into or s trouble. Commonly when I apply grime I let it soak in for 5-10 minutes so wipe it off. For some reason out, unbeknownst to me, the stain kept approaching back dormy to the surface in certain musca volitans. To fix this and or s tearout that became far more noticeable after the stain was applied, I took my smooth plane out and removed the top 1/16" or and so. I and then let information technology dry for about a week and reapplied the stain. This fourth dimension yet, I only let it sit a few minutes and I had no problems.

For destination I went with Minwax Polycrylic for cardinal reasons:

  • It dries inside 2 hours
  • It's water settled so it doesn't gold

I applied 3 coats sanding with 220 grit between each coat and and so waxed it with furniture wax.

Step 8: All Through!

Enjoy your new coffee prorogue and be sure to contribution photographs!

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